Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
